Monday, April 25, 2011

Sounds of Freedom

We took the Eritreans to their respective houses of worship on the 22. In this group the majority are Orthodox Christians, and there are 6 Muslims. It is amazing to watch them interact seamlessly as brothers and sisters, rather than divided by faith.  I asked a man named David about this he answered with a giant grin, "In our country, we are Muslims, Christians, Baptists and so on. . . This is the way we are working together. It is our culture." Perhaps their problems transcend the superficiality of religion. To survive they must cultivate faith in life, rather than belief in difference.
The next evening we took the Orthodox Christians to an Easter Vigil. After lighting our candles by the flames of those next to us, we then shared our flame with those next to us, and so on. Once we had a flame, we left the church and walked around the church 3 times. Once we were on our private bus home, the Eritreans sang an Easter blessing song in Tigre. Due to the confidential nature of their files, I am unable to show the video as it would compromise the safety of their families and friends still in prison. However, my friend and colleague, the very tech savy Brittany Taylor, created an MP3. To have been here was a privilege, and I would love for you to be able to see for yourself how special these shared moments were. So close your eyes, imagine you are on a city bus in Romania surrounded by 18 Eritreans who have been in prison for doing nothing wrong. The smell is of candle wax,  muskiness before rain and faintly of sweat. It is dark except for the few candles from the vigil that are still lit. These brave men and women arrived in Romania two days before, where they are staying until they continue on to a new life in America. They were able to speak to their families after many years of being unable to do so. Here is where we see faith and hope. Please enjoy the sounds of freedom.

Thursday, April 21, 2011

The Eritreans have arrived!!!

Finally, our accompaniment portion of the course has commenced. It goes without saying that it is a good thing refugees have gone directly to there placement countries rather than waiting in the ETC. However, the opportunity to interact and take part in the journey of these brave people is something that will not only benefit us, but also those at home.  (Read more from the UNHCR coverage of the Eritreans)
The group of around 30 is the first group of refugees to have fled the Libyan crisis being resettled by the Romanian ETC. In addition to the humanitarian aspect, this type of story warrants the press. We had every major outlet including the Associated Press and CNN in attendance for the arrival of our group as well as that of Romanian diplomats. The refugees took all this in stride and seemed to feel somewhat touched to find there are those interested in the hardship they have experienced.
Many of these men have not seen their families for several years. Eritrean people (both men and women) have a forced military enlistment. (Read more the plight of the Eritrean people here!) If this mandatory military service is not completed, the individual is denied a passport. This is of course accented by the phrase, "voluntary enlistment," which evens out to anything but voluntary. On paper the commitment is for 16 months, and military age ranges from 18-40. However, this is rarely the case. The service obligation is typically indefinite, living conditions are at best destitute, and those enlisted often suffer extreme human rights violations.
From Libya, our group transited through Tunisia where they were temporarily transferred to the Shousha Transit Camp. Their arrival here was a great relief  not only to the workers here, but also to the Eritreans, who all but one, will eventually be resettled in the United States.

Thursday, April 14, 2011

Here and now!

We had an awesome panel discussion with one of the local Universities(a more in depth blog will come-wait for it, wait for it!) yesterday we set out for Transylvania via bus (the bus, had 20-21 seat snugly carted 25+and a mouse for 8 1/2 hours. We arrived in the rain, ate a fabulous dinner and woke up to snow. How do you say "layers" in Romanian? It might be reminiscent of the Eskimo word for snow. And we're back.

Sunday, April 10, 2011

On the subject of time travel

Oh, the lessons learned while traveling are invaluable tools for self growth.  In our case, we recently learned we have been operating an hour behind the local time in Timisoara since our arrival. Cue the self growth. After arriving in Budapest, we assumed (yes, I know what they say...) the time in Budapest, Hungary was the same as that in Timisoara, Romania. Thus, we have been an hour + late to every event, dinner and  meeting scheduled on our behalf. Awesome.


Sure, there were signs that we were operating on a slightly different time schedule; the anxious rushing of food at breakfast, the panicked expressions of those picking us up for appointments literally, tracking us down on the side of the road as we were leisurely walking home from the ETC, and countless other details which I now make me shudder in embarrassment.
In all fairness we had absolutely no clue that we were late. See, we were trying to show up on "Romanian time" which is about 20 minutes or so after the time agreed, plus with the whole hour off thing, we've been excessively late.  Our hosts, out of politeness, weren't direct enough to ask why we have have been an hour + late to everything. And had we not missed our train to Budapest we still might be an hour behind the rest of Timisoara.
Initially, we just figured there was some kind of tricky daylight savings time that had taken place to destroy the travel plans of tourists. Clearly, this couldn't be on us. I mean, could it? Da. I don't remember the exact moment it dawned on us, however with this new knowledge that we have been living in the past for the better part of a week we realized how even outright mistakes could be viewed as cultural norms. Now that we have returned to the future, we are presently making history with our apologies.

Tuesday, April 5, 2011

What a difference a day makes

After receiving our suitcases, we have put on a new set of clothes for the first time in 7 days (cue the girl from the Ring). At present, we are preparing for the influx of refugees. In addition to the administrative work that must be done; calls to Geneva, conversations with various embassies and finalizing the budget, travel documents must be processed.
Often as a refugee, legal passports have never been processed. In Eritrea for example, unless one has served their mandatory military term, they can not receive their travel documents. This military commitment, which is supposed to last 6-months often exceeds 3 years, is done under terrible conditions; beatings, little food and with minor remittances. One of the main sources of refugee generation from Eritrea are those avoiding this harsh commitment. Women with children are typically not granted passports.
This creates a bit of a problem, especially in the post 9/11 travel world. It is often difficult to procure birth dates, and other pertinent information such as country of origin. Because again, given in a country like Eritrea, the boarders are constantly changing.  Refugees working with the UNHCR are given a refugee certificate and this then becomes their main source of identification. Now they are ready to travel. Assuming that they pass the medical health checks, security screenings and are physically able to leave the camps or prisons they are waiting in.
The additional preparations at the camp include bed prepping, retrieving of clothes and shoes — most of those arriving have nothing and shifting the security precautions. Yesterday was the calm before the storm, today the energy within the camp is pouring down like the rain that greeted us when we woke.

Monday, April 4, 2011

Empathy

Yesterday, we thought there would be no refugees in our camp until next week sometime. Today during our meeting, our group was informed that UNHCR had received a list of 31 names that are currently en route to our  the ETC.

The changes seem to occur so rapidly, especially given the current climate of the countries experiencing conflict. I can only imagine how unsettling this must be for those traveling as refugees. To not know where you are going, to not understand how you will get there until just before the change happens if at all, would be beyond stressful.

Yet, this is the life experience refugees gain in transit. We spoke today of empathy and how it is critical to have this quality when working with the UN. I feel that this trait is often lacking in my home country of America. Perhaps we can all try a little harder to put ourselves in the shoes of others as we tread through life.

Sunday, April 3, 2011

Romania first 3 days: Abridged

After 22 hours of flying, lost luggage and 5 hour bus ride from Budapest, Hungary to Romania, we arrived at our destination of Timisaora, Romania on Thursday night the 1st of April. No Joke. After a fabulous dinner and filling dinner with UNHCR Officer, Marie Wilson, our small group slept like hybernating bears.


When we woke we were met with a beautiful spring day as we headed over to Generatie Tanera Romania (GTR). GTR is one of the NGOs we will be working with. The GTR team, led by the fearless Mariana, is a fine tuned machine of volunteers from all over the world united in the fight agains sex trafficking.
Mariana gave us a detailed and engaging meeting over coffee, invited us for dinner and sent us to the the Emergency Transit Center (ETC), where we met Marie and toured the camp. At present there are no refugees in residence, as they have just left for their respective host countries. Next week however, they are expecting a major influx of refugees.

When we finished at the camp, we returned home and got ready for dinner. One of the benefits of having no suitcase is it really takes the guess work out of  what to wear. The folks at GTR prepared a fabulous and filling dinner of stuffed mushrooms, cheese, breaded veal, legume bean soup (my new favorite) and other traditional Romanian foods. Some of the guests included asylum seekers from Tunisia and Algeria. Their contributions to the evening's conversations were beyond enlightening. Our group was struck by the fact none of the asylum seekers wanted sympathy or money. They just waned safety and ultimately their basic human rights. The sub-human conditions those seeking democracy  are often subjected to are staggering; prisons, starvation, rats, beatings, and false mental analysis (in some cases they were accused of being terrorists). The "issues" in the Northern African and the Middle Eastern countries are not minor conflicts that happen to appear in the news. Their problems are global. They need to be viewed as "our problems"  because they will continue to affect us in the west on an increasing scale.

My thoughts so far are overwhelming and busy, but all of them remind me that I am connected to each of these problems as I am connected to you back home. Perhaps I am what bridges you to Cristina who was sold by her family in to the sex trade at the age of 9. Last night I shared dinner with a man from Tunisia who had to leave his country and family to because he wanted the right to vote. My hope is to bring people together so that we share the same problems and ultmately the same solutions.   

Here is the website if you want to check out GTC and more of what they do: http://www.generatietanara.ro/